JUUN.J

Article published in Naive Magazine

Jung Wook-Jun is one of the most observed designers of contemporaneity and the one behind Juun.J, one of the most successful and relevant Asian brands on the international scene. He was born and raised in South Korea and, after his military service, he began his studies at ESMOD Seoul, which he completed in 1992. Seven years later, after working at many distinguished fashion houses — such as Club Monaco, where he was the chief designer — he created his own label called “Lone Costume”. When he showed his creations at Seoul Fashion Week, the brand became very popular and one of the most successful in Korea. His style was similar to what we know from Juun.J today: large silhouettes, powerful volumes and a signature piece, which remains so: the trench coat, that he reinterpreted year after year.

In 2007, the designer renamed the brand as Juun.J and made his first international debut in Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Paris was chosen as the place for his debut since the French capital has always been a source of inspiration for the designer. In his opinion, while other cities are more prone to follow trends, in Paris everyone is given freedom and space to be who they really are. His unique style and ability to deconstruct traditional ideas in menswear positioned him as one of the most innovative designers on the scene. He was able to convey his message very well, defending his way of playing with proportions, layering and oversizing. Many of the critics defined his proposal and style with a new concept called “street tailoring”.

The contemporary tailoring that characterizes Juun.J arrived at Pitti Uomo 89 in January 2016. It was the very first South Korean brand to be represented at the trade fair and it was a huge success. It is one of the reasons why Jung Wook-Jun is considered a pioneer for South Korean fashion development. K-fashion has long been a power under the radar and the designer has had a major role in attracting worldwide attention to this market. The fashion show — held at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence — was incredible and allowed the designer to share his vision globally. The garments from the collection carried an important message, as words such as “gender” or “bound” were printed on several pieces. Juun.J had a very clear objective: fight for the rise of genderless clothing while redefining the idea of fashion in the 21st century.

Brand style

As demonstrated over the years, Jung Wook-Jun gives great importance to the neutrality of genders. In Korea there is a deeply rooted image of a very masculine man, a man who earns his masculinity through suffering. To break with this idea, the designer seeks to soften the image of men and depict a very different situation. In his designs, feminine and curvy silhouettes are combined with more aggressive shapes that create very voluminous looks, which can be worn by anyone. His vision and understanding of genderless clothing is redefining fashion and also allows him to escape from traditional patterns, creating a more experimental universe.

The presence of the military was all around during his youth and had a major impact on an entire generation. It goes beyond the presence of American soldiers in Seoul and in many areas of Korea. The really important fact is that military service is mandatory. Jung Wook-Jun served in the army for three years and, at the beginning, he did not really like uniforms because he said they did not fit him. Over the years, he learnt to appreciate the beauty and practicality of these garments and have been a great source of inspiration to design his most iconic collections and pieces.

Juun.J has a masterly expertise in classic tailoring and shakes up all this knowledge to create new shapes, silhouettes and contrasts that break with traditional patterns. Two major sources of inspiration for the designer are youth and street culture, and a concept thas has been used several times to define his style is “street tailoring”. With his great talent, the designer has managed to reflect his signature style in wide pants, sumptuous parkas, oversized bombers, reinvented trench coats… Finding the perfect balance between street culture, classicism and the military world.

One of the most remarkable elements of his DNA is volume, as he has a strong inclination to create avant-garde designs with great volumes, large silhouettes and casual draping and structured styles, which allow him to include both genders in his creations. One of the things that sets him apart as a designer is his passion for dramatic contrasts. That is why his collections always reflect large volumes that contrast with flatter silhouettes, always finding the right balance. His knowledge and creative vision are undoubtedly driving forces for the evolution of menswear.

Spring Summer 2021 “SeoulSoul”

Seoul was Juun.J’s main inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, named “SeoulSoul”. “When I considered how to present my collection, I found myself thinking of my hometown” he stated in the official press release. “For me, Seoul has always been too close and familiar to notice, but it has always been on my mind. There is no better place to film the collection. My favorite crowded streets, technological, but holding a traditional beauty”. The magnetic atmosphere that captivates the designer can be appreciated in an artful film presentation which features the models walking through the streets of Seoul in selected pieces from the collection.

“SeoulSoul” is an unisex collection that especially features cargo pockets, boxy bomber jackets and blazers. In contrast to the structured silhouettes inspired by the military world, we can also see light and airy dresses designed with subtle delicacy. The accessories also take power, as the designer incorporates bulky saddle bags strapped at the waist or resting on the hips. Full-pocket looks and large volumes are also the focus for Juun.J this season, who managed to move away from his more futuristic side and focus on shapes and concepts that are very representative of his universe without losing any power.

Collaborations

According to Jung Wook-Jun, collaborating with artists is part of Juun.J’s identity. He states that, although he also has an artistic background, he prefers to focus on fashion design and to collaborate with different artists who take care of the art and graphics. In his eyes, it is the best way to get the best out of each discipline. Over the years, he has collaborated with artists such as Greg Simkins, Paolo Pedroni, Josh Luke, Ambush, Hajime Sorayama or Oleg Dou. Juun.J has also collaborated with brands that were interested in his experimental aesthethic and distinct style, such as Adidas, Reebok, Moleskine or Canada Goose, among many others.

The latter — one of the world’s leading makers of luxury apparel — launched a collection in collaboration with the South Korean firm. It was called “Synthesis”, since the two brands combined to form a new whole. In this synergy, the functional expertise of Canada Goose and the modern approach to design represented by Juun.J combined function while pushing the boundaries of style.